{"id":4334,"date":"2018-01-31T18:43:31","date_gmt":"2018-02-01T00:43:31","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/stevetibbetts.com\/?p=4334"},"modified":"2022-06-11T22:21:40","modified_gmt":"2022-06-12T03:21:40","slug":"sopa-choling","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/stevetibbetts.com\/sopa-choling\/","title":{"rendered":"Sopa Ch\u00f6ling"},"content":{"rendered":"\r\n

Family email sent from Halifax, Nova Scotia, November 2016<\/strong><\/p>\r\n

Hi everyone:\u00a0 I’m writing this from the bar at the Alt Hotel in Halifax. Tomorrow I’ll head back to Minnesota. \u00a0The next day is election day; good luck to our side. \u00a0I’ll drive down to\u00a0Madison on the 13th of December.<\/p>\r\n

I flew into Halifax about two weeks ago and had a nice dinner with Larry Mermelstein and Tingzin Otro. \u00a0Tingdzin is a westerner, but was a monk for many years and kept the Tibetan name he was given on ordination. \u00a0Larry is director of the Nalanda Translation Committee, Trungpa Rinpoche’s translation group. \u00a0Tingdzin has helped with some things over the last 20 years so, I wanted to treat him to dinner.<\/p>\r\n

The next day I was picked up by a shuttle at the Alt Hotel. \u00a0The shuttle was not much more than some guy’s rusty brown van with a magnetic sign saying “NS Shuttle” slapped on it. \u00a0We drove north for a few hours to a small town called Baddeck. \u00a0About halfway there we stopped at a Tim Horton’s for gas and a break. \u00a0The shuttle driver had a thick Newfoundland accent. \u00a0When the van came to stop he said, “Wee-a be hyah abut fie minna. \u00a0Fie minna. \u00a0An a-settul up hyah wi can.”\u00a0\u00a0(“We’ll be here about five minutes, and settle up here, we can.”) \u00a0I got out of the van, reached into my wallet, and pulled out 70 Canadian dollars. \u00a0He turned to me and I handed the money to him. \u00a0He smiled and said, “Yr tiched yu illbu. \u00a0Ya tich ya illbu wen ya hanno moni ti mee-ah!” \u00a0I said, “What?” \u00a0He pointed to his elbow.\u00a0\u00a0Then he held out his arm and touched his elbow. \u00a0I got it then–he had said, “You touched your elbow when you handed money to me.” \u00a0I picked up that habit from working for the Naropa Study Abroad groups in Asia. \u00a0It’s regarded as a gesture of respect to touch your left hand to your right elbow when you hand money to someone. \u00a0He recognized that. \u00a0I said, “So, you worked in Asia?” and he said, “All over: Kuwait, China, Philippines.” \u00a0We had a nice conversation on our way north after that, but I couldn’t understand much.<\/p>\r\n

He dropped me off at the Tim Horton’s in Baddeck. \u00a0I got a grilled cheese and wondered how I’d recognize whoever had been dispatched from Gampo Abbey to\u00a0get me. \u00a0I needn’t have worried; I saw a car pull in and a 50-ish lady get out, scanning the parking lot. \u00a0That was Nancy Huszagh, the Dr\u00fcppon of the retreat.\u00a0\u00a0(“Dr\u00fcppon” is a title given to the director of a retreat or retreat center.)<\/p>\r\n

We drove to Gampo Abbey. \u00a0Gampo Abbey is located at what seems to be land’s end for North America; I think the only settlement further out in Nova Scotia is the town of Meat Cove.\u00a0 Gampo Abbey itself is a house and barn converted into a monastic living environment. \u00a0It was established under the direction of Trungpa Rinpoche and Pema Ch\u00f6dron. \u00a0Pema is a famous western teacher known for a bunch of best-selling books with very sad titles (“The Places that Scare You”, “When Things Fall Apart”). \u00a0I bought Miriam one of Pema’s books when she seemed to be in some pain at college and I’m guessing that sort of purchase amounts to a pretty big percentage of Pema’s buyers: \u00a0people who want to do something for their hurting friend\/parent\/child. \u00a0(Buy a Pema book, send book, then book probably shelved, unread.)<\/p>\r\n

Gampo Abbey housed about 8 lifetime monastics until last year when they mutinied and set up new monastic housing<\/a> near Halifax. \u00a0These days Gampo Abbey is nearly empty. \u00a0A little spooky. \u00a0I’d go over there in the evenings to get email or print handouts.\u00a0\u00a0In a few months a group of new monastics practicing “Shambhala monasticism” will move in. \u00a0I’m not sure what that is, exactly.<\/p>\r\n

Just south of the abbey is the three-year retreat center called Sopa Ch\u00f6ling. \u00a0Sopa Ch\u00f6ling is a stand-alone center devoted to three-year retreats. \u00a0That is, once a person signs up for the Sopa Ch\u00f6ling retreat they don robes, take monastic vows, and don’t walk back through the gate leading out of Sopa Ch\u00f6ling until the retreat is finished. \u00a0This group will be in until next August. \u00a0The building has a kitchen and shrine room in the central portion, and two long wings on either side housing very small rooms for the monks (north side) and nuns (south side).\u00a0 The monks and nuns sleep sitting up, for the most part, in meditation boxes. \u00a0Most of their practice is done in their rooms. \u00a0There are two rooms in the basement called “yoga rooms,” and that’s where I’d teach.<\/p>\r\n

Both Sopa Ch\u00f6ling and Gampo Abbey are perched on cliffs overlooking the Gulf of St. Lawrence. \u00a0The weather is intense and the landscape spectacular.<\/p>\r\n

Here it is on Google Maps: \u00a0https:\/\/goo.gl\/FHFAYc<\/a><\/p>\r\n

The retreat center of Sopa Ch\u00f6ling is the pink building on the cliff, south of Gampo Abbey on the map where the road curves around. \u00a0.<\/p>\r\n

During the drive from Baddeck Nancy and I talked about lots of things, but mostly about the fact that this group in Sopa Ch\u00f6ling will be the last to do the three-year retreat. \u00a0It’s a complicated situation and too much to go into here. \u00a0My job was to teach four or five people who had come up to Sopa Ch\u00f6ling exclusively for a section of the three-year retreat called The Six Dharmas of Naropa.\u00a0 I’d be teaching a small subsection of that practice called trulkh\u00f6r, a sort of Tibetan yoga. \u00a0This is something I learned at Karm\u00e9 Ch\u00f6ling, practiced in retreat for 10 months, and have been doing for about 20 years now. Nancy, as Dr\u00fcppon, was advised by Elizabeth Callahan (nominally the guiding teacher for the retreat) to import me for this purpose.<\/p>\r\n

We arrived late and took a quick tour of the area. \u00a0I was put in a house close to Sopa Ch\u00f6ling with a huge room to myself. \u00a0Nancy said, “I’ll come over tomorrow at\u00a08, and we’ll give an introductory talk in the shrine room at 9.”<\/p>\r\n

Nancy came over the next morning and we drank tea and chatted. \u00a0As we were getting up to walk over, she said, “They’ll expect you to light the shrine.” \u00a0I’d\u00a0forgotten about that part. \u00a0In the Shambhala\/Vajradhatu\/Trungpa world, the students assemble in the shrine room and wait. \u00a0Then the visiting teacher walks in,\u00a0strides confidently up to the shrine, lights the incense, and takes his or her seat. \u00a0I’d forgotten about the formality of the situation.<\/p>\r\n

We walked to Sopa Ch\u00f6ling and clumped up the stairs to the shrine room. \u00a0There were lots of shoes outside the shrine room door. \u00a0Many more than I had\u00a0expected. \u00a0Nancy and I took our shoes off. \u00a0Nancy went into the shrine room and I followed her. \u00a0The instant I walked in there was a big whooshing sound; 15\u00a0garbed monastics standing up. \u00a0Shooooom. \u00a0Lots of fabric. \u00a0I walked to the shrine, lit the incense, turned and sat down on a cushion facing everyone. \u00a0I looked out\u00a0at a small sea of red and yellow robes, some shaved heads, bald as eggs.<\/p>\r\n

Nancy’s introduction gave me a few minutes to settle in. \u00a0There was a glass of water on a table to my left. \u00a0When I felt flummoxed by the whole deal I turned to my\u00a0left and went for the water. \u00a0I gave a decent talk.<\/p>\r\n

So that’s how it began, and I have to say, it was wonderful to be up there for two weeks. Their day started (starts) at 5, mine at 7:30. \u00a0In the course of the day I\u00a0spoke individually with people for several hours, and taught an hour-long class to the men and then another one to the women. \u00a0Then I’d spend an hour or more\u00a0training people to take over for me. \u00a0In the interviews I was often asked questions I couldn’t answer, and I’d reply, “I don’t have a clue.” \u00a0Yesterday an older woman\u00a0said, “At my age, my practice is about being ready for death. \u00a0How can I use the practice we’re studying for that?”<\/p>\r\n

I had to learn names for everyone, even the ones I knew from the past. \u00a0An old friend is now Gyurme, another is Kunga, and so on.\u00a0\u00a0It was hard to tell everyone apart, at the beginning.\u00a0 Nancy mentioned something about Shiwa to me at one point and I said, “Which one is Shiwa again?” and she replied, “Well she’s the bald one in robes.”<\/p>\r\n

If anyone was in the serving area when I’d walk in to get coffee they’d stop talking or buttering bread or whatever and turn and put their hands together and bow.\u00a0\u00a0I’d bow back. \u00a0I secretly enjoyed it, for the two days they kept it up. \u00a0I thought, “If only the kids could see this.”<\/p>\r\n

Right now I’m sitting in the bar at the Alt hotel, drinking a beer. \u00a0People are scattered about the place, alone or in pairs, mostly looking at phones and laptops. \u00a0I feel\u00a0like I should be getting ready to give them all a talk in about 20 minutes.<\/p>\r\n

That’s all for now. \u00a0Will update on travel plans; might take the train to Madison. \u00a0Tired of traveling.<\/p>\r\n

This is looking back to Sopa Ch\u00f6ling, my back to the sea. \u00a0The shrine room is on the upper level. \u00a0The place I’d sit at and drink coffee and read is in the middle, looking out at the ocean.\u00a0 The individual rooms are to the left and right, men and women.<\/p>\r\n

\"Sopa<\/a>

Sopa Ch\u00f6ling, retreat center, looking east<\/p><\/div>\r\n

This is where I sat and read when I wasn’t teaching. \u00a0There were always 5 or 6 eagles circling the cliff, crows harassing them. \u00a0There were gulls, terns, and\u00a0gannets. \u00a0In the summer the retreatants sometimes look out and see whales breaching.<\/p>\r\n

\"View<\/a><\/p>\r\n

\"A<\/a><\/p>\r\n

Gampo Abbey, looking to the north from Sopa Ch\u00f6ling.<\/p>\r\n

\"Looking<\/a><\/p>\r\n

 <\/p>\r\n

\"The<\/a>

One of these things is not like the other.<\/p><\/div>\r\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Family email sent from Halifax, Nova Scotia, November 2016 Hi everyone:\u00a0 I’m writing this from the bar at the Alt Hotel in Halifax. Tomorrow I’ll head back to Minnesota. \u00a0The next day is election day; good luck to our side. \u00a0I’ll drive down to\u00a0Madison on the 13th of December. I flew into Halifax about two…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[113],"tags":[12,116,22,45,121,120,60,125,124,122,126,123],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nSopa Ch\u00f6ling · Steve Tibbetts<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/stevetibbetts.com\/sopa-choling\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Sopa Ch\u00f6ling · Steve Tibbetts\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Family email sent from Halifax, Nova Scotia, November 2016 Hi everyone:\u00a0 I’m writing this from the bar at the Alt Hotel in Halifax. Tomorrow I’ll head back to Minnesota. \u00a0The next day is election day; good luck to our side. \u00a0I’ll drive down to\u00a0Madison on the 13th of December. 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